Bianellis, our local Italian treasure, keeps getting better and better. I had the privilege of tasting both new menu items and old favorites they have worked hard to elevate.
A significant change they have made is the flour for their pizza dough. Rather than Pizza Flour, the standard for most pizzerias in the U.S., Tommy Dews, owner and operator, and his family decided to bite the bullet and invest in Caputo Double Zero Flour from Italy. It almost doubled the cost, but with the benefit of high-quality flour and a 72-hour fermentation process, they removed most of the irritants that typically trigger the bloating and discomfort of gluten sensitivities. Something Tommy’s wife, Candace, suffers from.
Second on their list was flavor authenticity. A common complaint of American-Italian cuisine is how sweet or heavy it can be compared to the original food. Hence, Bianellis removed sugar from its crust and sauces, sourced better quality Italian tomatoes, and simmered the sauces for much more extended periods to bring out that natural sweetness.
Of course, Tommy Dews realizes that even with these changes, some true allergies need to be accommodated and has included permanent gluten and dairy-free menu options that are kept from cross-contamination in Bianellis’ kitchen. Feeling optimistic, I eagerly dived into tasting Bianellis’ many offerings.
The Pasta Sauces
Marinara: The classic staple of any Italian ristorante. This was my first bite, and I immediately noted the difference between your typical spaghetti and meatballs. It was surprisingly light! There was no saturating sweetness or greasiness like many American red sauces, and it was much more reminiscent of an authentic Italian Marinara. I could have eaten a whole plate without feeling the heaviness I usually deal with.
White Wine Mushroom Sauce: Creamy and unctuous, but rather than the punch of mushroom flavor I was expecting, the front note was of nutmeg, making this quite unique, though unexpected. This sauce also appears in another capacity that I found scrumptious.
Pink Sauce: A fun carry-over from Bianellis’ original menu, it blends their house Marinara and White Wine Mushroom sauces. It was rich. It was sweet. It was umami. But best of all, it had that kick from the nutmeg that was surprising and almost unidentifiable. Truly, I spent minutes lingering over this sauce to identify what pepper or spice they had used in it until I tried the White Wine Sauce on its own.
Mac Nut Pesto: Living in Hawai’i, this has become an expectation and one I’ve honestly come to prefer to the original. However, this was something different. My favorite Bianellis sauce by far, with a savory tanginess that left me CRAVING another bite. My companions all agreed. Don’t ask me what Tommy does different, but it’s worth the trip to try it.
If you want to try multiple sauces, get their Pasta Flight, and my advice is go pink and green!
The Pizzas
Margherita: With a brushing of garlic olive oil and a light sauce covering, the highlight here is the crust. Ultra crispy but not crunchy, tender but not tough or chewy. Every element of this pizza highlighted the changes Tommy made. Not heavy or too greasy with beautifully cooked tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil.
Gourmet Veggie with Cauliflower Crust and Vegan Cheese: This was the entirely allergy-friendly option I tried for the night. Peppery front notes were carried by the sauce. The cauliflower crust had a good chew, adding to the pizza's overall flavor, the texture with the tender artichoke hearts, and the firm bite of the eggplant, which can be breaded or not. The vegan cheese was pretty standard, adding a slight and almost floral nuttiness.
Carlsbad: Deliziosa! An homage to the Dews’ prior home in California, it pairs the sweet sundried tomatoes pair with the pesto, elevating both. It’s tangy, sweet and salty. Usually, I am not a feta enthusiast, so I tend to avoid the pizzas that feature it. However, here, it is so light that, combined with the mozzarella, I barely noticed it. Every element kicked up the whole to another level.
The Lasagna Calzone: I’d already sampled three pizzas and four pastas before they brought out a cheesy, decadent calzone larger than my head, which made this a bit hard to handle. It was delicious, full of good sausage and creamy ricotta, but the food coma had kicked in, and even on a typical day, I’d recommend splitting this with someone. Overall, it was a delightful and relaxed evening with incredible food and incredible amounts of it.
The Dews believe owners should be involved with their staff team and customers. You can find Tommy moving around his restaurant, greeting customers, and ensuring their food is the best quality possible. While sometimes it can feel like nothing lasts long here in our little corner of the Pacific, Bianellis is proof that sometimes change can bring new people into the community who are as eager to see it flourish and grow as we are.
Learn more at Bianellis.com, or visit them at the Keauhou Shopping Center for a bite.
Under the Dews' ownership, Bianellis is now the primary food sponsor for Surf For Special Needs. They also support the Rise Up Foundation for battered women, Arbor House Firefighter’s fundraiser and Jr. Golf at the Kona Country Club.
They’ve also partnered with the Hawai’i Tech Academy, allowing students to come and see how chemistry is applied to food science.
Overall, it was a delightful and relaxed evening with incredible food and incredible amounts of it.